After driving across the open plain of Mascota we began climbing into the mountains on the new highway to Puerto Vallarta. Two years ago, while the new highway was being built, we had swerved and bumped along for many miles on a temporary dirt road at the bottom of the canyon, fording many boulder strewn streams. This time was different. We found the paved, but twisty, highway in good condition although it is not a high speed route. Finally we got over the mountains and to the San Sebastian turnoff.
On arriving about 2:30 at 4600 foot high San Sebastian, we moved into our reserved rooms at Hotel el Puente (120 pesos each per night). We noticed tourists all over town using US dollars. The steep rise in prices around town was probably due to the ready access over the newly completed paved highway. This was no longer our remote and secret place! After exploring the village we had an early dinner at a special Mexican restaurant in the northwest corner of town.
Then we all headed for the top of La Bufa in our SUVs, a climb of 4000 feet with an incredible view. Unfortunately near the mountain top, the road was under repair so none of us saw the top, the sunset over the Pacific nor the lights of Puerto Vallarta come on. However, the long uphill walk beyond the blockage was good to do after our substantial dinners. Before turning in, some of us took in a nightcap at another restaurant uphill from our hotel.
Everyone was outside with their packed bags at 8:00 AM ready for breakfast and a quick departure. Unfortunately the cook at the restaurant wasn’t. In Mexico the cook prepares and completes one meal at a time serially so the wait was substantial. But by nine, carrying topographic maps and a GPS, we were on our way north into serious mountain country to find our way through a maze of mining roads.
The route was full of switchbacks and roads carved into towering cliffs. There were numerous places where the edge of the dirt road had collapsed directly down into the canyon a thousand feet below. Often the road was single lane and the infrequent traffic had to back up to hug the edge of the canyon. Fortunately we usually had the inside!
The plan was to find and explore the ruins of the old La Quintera mine. However, what we found was a working, small scale, silver refining plant. It was fascinating to observe the whole process of the ore being ground in a giant rotating drum containing very hard round balls, followed by a process where liquid was added to the ground ore to become a bubbly slurry. I believe the ore impurities were lifted by the bubbles to flow over the side of the huge rectangular tank leaving behind a concentration of silver. The whole process was an engaging sight, especially the young female engineer showing us around.
By 10 AM we were back on the main road and continuing downhill to Santiago de Los Pinos, an area of bare red earth, few trees and considerable erosion. There was an unmapped bypass road (keep right) which added some confusion but soon we were on our way again, our destination being San Felipe de Hijar. What I had expected to take an hour, took two, and Dick’s Subaru was running very low on gas. Driving up one mountain side and down into the next valley, only to repeat the process over and over, used far more gas than expected. There were a couple of shacks here and there but no villages.
Finally we broke out of the high mountains and almost coasted into the dirt village of San Felipe where we were able to buy some bottles of gasoline. Having all taken a mouth full of gasoline at one time or another, we took particular interest in how the young lady used her mouth to get the siphon going. Then off we went to the seemingly only eating place in town, in the far back corner of a store. We ate while Dick and Ted fell asleep on the chesterfield.
After San Felipe we came across our first paved road, like a super highway leading us down to the hot and humid Ameca River valley at 1470 feet elevation. Then just as unexpectedly we were back into the dirt. However, it wasn’t long before we were at the Balneario el Manto (60 pesos), an intriguing warm springs recreational complex, built into a slot canyon with towering red rock walls above the crystal clear water. With only us there, we played like kids, exploring the canyon and flying down the waterslide. But before long it was time to leave.
As we had spent so much time slowly negotiating through the mountains, we decided to take a short cut home by taking a paved switchback road directly north over a 5000 foot high mountain range and down to the Autopista leading to Guadalajara. Part way up we were surprisingly blocked by a large landslide and so had to return by an alternate route directly east through Amatlan de Canas and Tala to
It was a very long exploration, packed into just two days. However, the memories of getting to know each other better and sharing the adventure will last much longer.